FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE HIGHLIGHTS BECHTHOLD VINEYARD

These Ancient California Vineyards Make Some of America’s Most Interesting Wines Today

excerpted from September 23, 2026 article BY ADAM CALLAGHAN

Just south of Sacramento is another favorite of Krause: Bechthold Vineyard. Planted in 1886 and situated in the Mokelumne River AVA, the largest subappellation within Lodi, Bechthold is the oldest Cinsault vineyard in the world. 

“As with appellation, the age of a vine is no guarantee of quality, but we have found that, by and large, if someone decided 140 years ago to plant a vineyard, and subsequent generations of the family have bothered to keep it in the ground, there might be good reason for it,” says Krause. 

He says it’s easy to overripen and over-oak the fruits of ancient vines, so he embraces short macerations, native fermentation, and mostly neutral élevage to create wines that have as much depth and aging potential as the plants themselves. He wields Cinsault’s potential for purple flowers and aromatic lift in, among other things, a rosé blended with similarly ancient Mourvèdre.

Melinda Kearney, winemaker and co-owner of Lorenza Wine, also uses this superlative Cinsault for a rosé that’s blended with Carignan, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. 

“The Cinsault, when picked and pressed directly for rosé, offers a broader, softer, and honeyed component along with Golden Delicious apples and cinnamon,” she says. It rounds and anchors the acid, citrus, and verve of the other varietals. 

She also makes a lean, single-varietal red Cinsault fermented on the skins and stems, where “the flavors become more tuned toward raspberry, strawberry, and spices like cardamom and clove, and the acidity is well balanced and brings a beautiful lift.”

Bechthold Vineyard wines to try